September Wine Club
Wine Club, September 2023
Oddero, Langhe Riesling 2022
Max Ferd. Richter, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2022
Luigi Giordano, Barbaresco ‘Cavana’ 2020
WINES
2021 Oddero, Langhe Riesling, Piemonte, Italy
2022 Max Ferd. Richter, Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany
2020 Luigi Giordano, Barbaresco ‘Cavana’, Piemonte, Italy
CONTRATTO
Blanc de Blancs 'Pas Dosé' 2016, Alta Langa DOC, Italy
100% Chardonnay
Sadly, when asked about Sparkling Wine from Italy, most people are familiar with just Prosecco. While the wines of Prosecco are delicious, they are a far cry from the prestigious bubbles of Champagne and other parts of the world making wines following the 'Champagne Method'. In Italy, there are actually two regions which produce Sparkling Wine that must be made in the method champennois to qualify for DOC/DOCG status. The most famous of these is Franciacorta but perhaps the most exciting is the Alta Langa DOCG. Established as a DOCG in 2011, it was actually the first region in Italy to make traditional method sparkling wine back in the mid-19th century. The appellation name is reserved exclusively for the production of sparkling wine and stretches through the provinces of Cuneo, Asti, and Alessandria, just to the South and East of Barolo and Barbaresco. Production rules here are strict and the requirements include:
· wines must be produced using the 'traditional method' (2nd fermentation in the bottle)
· grapes must be 90% Chardonnay or Pinot Noir (or a blend of the two
· up to 10% of the grapes may be local/indigenous white grapes
· vineyards must be at an elevation of at least 250m (820ft)
· minimum of 30 months aging on lees / riserva must age for a minimum of 36 months
· all wines must be single vintage (in Champagne, non-vintage wines may have reserve wines from other vintages)
In 1867 Contratto was the first producer in the region to produce these 'traditional method' sparkling wines. The estate was family owned until 1993 and was purchased by the great Piemontese producer Giorgio Rivetti of La Spinetta in 2011. The cellar at Contratto is official a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is known as the 'Wine Cathedral'—entirely excavated by hand and covering 5,000 square meters with a depth up to 38 meters underground! These are joyous sparkling wines that 'know they are Italian'! They are just as delicious as their French counterparts but they lack the prentention. On our travels through Piemonte last June, almost every meal was started effortless with bubbles from the Alta Langa.
The wine presented here is the 2016 Blanc de Blancs 'Pas Dosé'. 100% Chardonnay grapes are used and the wine undergoes 40 months of aging on lees! An extremely generous and floral nose is accompanied by notes of hazelnut and exotic fruits.
A note on glassware
Do not serve this wine a coup or in a flute! In fact, save the coupes just for cocktails, and the flutes - reserve them for Kir or a big party. Champagne and high-quality Sparkling Wine needs to be treated more like a wine and should be served in a glass that allows the aromas and the bubbles to speak. For wines like this, if you want a more traditional style glass, opt for a tulip-shaped Champagne glass, or serve them in traditional wine glasses with bowls that allow the aromas to open and provide just enough width to allow the bubbles to percolate.
The Champagne Method
The Champagne Method/Traditional Method/method champennois/metodo classico is used to make almost all of the world's prestigious sparkling wines. Below is the method with some descriptions of differences in certain steps.
1. Make a still wine: Grapes (which grapes are controlled by local laws) are harvested and brought back to the winery where still wines are made following normal practices. They will likely be aged either in steel tanks or in wood for about 9 months before the real process of creating a sparkling wine begins. The wine here will likely only be 7%-9% abv.
2. Assemblage: The winemakers will create the blend for the planned wine based on the house style or the vintage. In the case of a vintage wine, all of the grapes and juice must come from the same vintage harvest. In the case of a non-vintage wine, producers often use a base or reserve wine that holds still wine from previous vintages to be blended with new vintages, creating a uniform style year after year. Some producers, such as Pierre Peters, have a reserve wine system going back as far as 20 years.
3. Tirage: The blended wine, now called the cuvée, is bottled and the liqueur de tirage is added. The liqueur de tirage is a combination of sugar and yeast that is added into the bottle. The bottle is covered with a traditional crown cap (or now in some cases cork is being used), and laid in the cellar to age.
4. Aging on lees: Lees is the word used to describe the dead yeast cells that are created through the process of alcoholic fermentation. In alcoholic fermentation, yeast eats sugar, converting it into both ethyl alcohol and Carbon Dioxide. In normal winemaking, the CO2 is expelled into the air while the sugar is converted into the alcohol. In the case of sparkling wine, the crown cap on the bottle prohibits the CO2 from escaping. Instead, it stays in the bottle, carbonating the liquid as the sugar is converted into alcohol, raising the wine's abv to 11.5%-14%. In Champagne, this aging must happen for a mimimun of 15 months for non-vintage wines and 36 months for vintage wines (although it is often much longer). In Alta Langa DOCG, the required minimum is 30 months as all wines are vintage.
5. Riddling/Rémouage: Riddling is the amazing process of taking the dead yeast cells and moving them to the neck of the bottle. Traditionally this was done by hand in a pupitre–an A-frame piece of wood with holes in which the necks of the bottles are held. A 'riddler' is the highly-trained cellar worker who will give each bottle light corner turns that slowly move the bottles from a horizontal position to a near vertical position, allowing the yeast to collect near the cap. By hand, this process can take 4-6 weeks. Skilled riddlers can do as many as 40,000 bottles a day. Sadly, the practice is dying and only a few Champagne houses still employ riddlers. Today there is a device called 'gyropallette' that holds hundreds of bottles and it moves them in a cradle accomplishing the task in 7-10 days as it works 24/7.
6. Digorgement: With aging and riddling complete, the dead yeast/lees is now at the end of the bottle neck. The bottles are moved carefully in a vertical position (pointed down) so that the yeast remains as the cap and the neck is frozen in a super cold nitrogen bath freezing just the area where the lees have collected. A machine is used (a few wineries still do this by hand) that quickly pops off the crown cap and the frozen lees are expelled by the pressure in the bottle. A touch of wine may be lost here as well.
7. Dosage/Liqueur d'expédition: As this point, the winery makes the decision of the final style for the wine. Will it be fully dry or will it be slightly sweet? The liqueur d'expédition is a blend of the original still wine with an added amount of sugar. This is added back into the bottle and the traditional cork and cage are applied. The wine is laid down to settle and perhaps age longer at the cellar, and is then ready for release and consumption.
Dosage amounts
Brut Nature/Pas Dosage/Pas Dosé: 0-3g/L sugar added
Extra Brut: 0-6g/L sugar added
Brut: 0g-12g/L sugar added (normal is around 8g/L)
Extra Dry/Extra Sec: 12-17g/L sugar added
Sec: 17-32g/L sugar added
Demi-Sec: 32-50g/L sugar added
Doux: >50g/L sugar added
Serve at 40º-43ºF
Drink: now-2030
Food pairings: Wonderful on its own or with cheese, charcuterie, seafood.
CARMELO PATTI
2018 Malbec, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina
100% Malbec
A disclaimer: Malbec is not one of my favorite grapes. I typically find it underwhelming and rather boring. So, when I find one that excites me or highlights something new and interesting, it sticks out! Carmelo Patti has been making almost artisanal wine in Mendoza for decades. He truly is one of the pioneers here and has avoided the trends and influences have made Argentinian Malbec into both a consumer favorite and critical darling. These trends include the extensive (and often excessive) use of new oak, conventional farming practices to increase yields, and broad sourcing of grapes from less than ideal plots. Instead, Carmelo Patti continues making wine from premiere vineyard sites with limited interventions both in the vineyard and the cellar. This includes perhaps his most unique trait which is the holding back of wines in the cellar until they reach a bottle age that he feels allows the wines to express themselves. Most Argentinian Malbecs will be released to the market within 2 years of harvest. Patti holds his wines back for an average of 5 years before releasing them, allowing them to come to the world already possessing a sense of maturity. In the case of his Cabernet Sauvignon, it can even be 10 years!
In the case of his Malbec, the wine comes from vineyards in the Lujan de Cuyo GI of Mendoza. This historic area is home to some of the most acclaimed wines of the country, and sits at an average of 1,000m (3,300ft) in elevation, with its highest points at 1,300m. While not as high as the Uco Valley, these vines are much older here and offer greater structure and concentration. The wine is fermented with native yeast and aged in concrete for 12 months and is then moved into used oak barrels for 12 more months. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered and stored at the winery typically for another 3 years until it is deemed 'ready' for the market.
I enjoy this wine because of its roundness. Malbec is often very direct and can too easily be described as 'smooth'. This wine has a certain volume that blends its silky tannins and richness together on the palate. Flavors and aromas are classic rather than modern: red currants, a touch of wet earth, subtle dried fruit notes, a touch of smoke, and elegant baking spices. A nice but not aggressive amount of acid adds backbone and support.
Drink now. Can hold for another 10 years.
Serving Temperature: 60º-65ºF
Food Pairings: Burgers, grilled meat, roasted lamb.
Tenuta San Guido
2021 ‘Guidalberto’, Bolgheri DOC, Toscana IGT
80% Cabernet, 20% Merlot
Few producers in Italy can claim a level of true significance and consistent excellence to rival Tenuta San Guido. The Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta came to Maremma on the West coast of Tuscany in the 1940s and took the bold step to plant Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Few could see the significance this decision would have a few decades later. For over 20 years, the wine made here was simply a family product and passion. However, in 1968, the landscape of Italian wine was changed forever with the official release of Sassicaia, and the creation of the 'Super-Tuscan'.
Della Rocchetta's vision of planting French grapes in Tuscany was remarkable. The soil type on his estate reminded him of the gravel, pebble, and clay soils of Bordeaux, and the style of these wines was what he was looking for. Sassicaia has become one of the most important and consistently great wines in the world. Today is is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and is the only wine whose vineyard itself is its own DOC (Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC). It is expensive, ageworthy, and iconic.
In the years after Sassicaia, the Maremma region of Tuscany has become home to the Bolgheri DOC where producers make wines from French varietals with a clear Tuscan flare. The proximity of the sea to the West (just 40 meters from some vineyards) and the low coastal mountains to the east creates an incredible microclimate both in terms of weather conditions and overall terroir. The best wines from here are truly among the top versions of Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah in the world and rival those of the French and Californian superstars (often at a fraction of the price). Most producers make a top wine that showcases their oldest vines or a pure single-varietal expression as well as a medium priced ($50-$100btl) wine that expresses the complete essence of the estate. Many also have entry level wines that offer incredible value and deliciousness under $30btl.
In 2000, Tenuta San Guido released its first 'second wine': Guidalberto. Designed to be more approachable when young and more affordable, the wine has its own style and profile and is really a perfect introduction to the Sassicaia style. Rather than using the Cabernet Franc, Guidalberto is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (60% and 40% respectively). The softness of the Merlot calms the powerful Bolgheri Cabernet and makes this wine pure pleasure. Aging is in a mix of new and 2nd/3rd passage oak, which includes a small percentage of American oak. The 2021 vintage is absolutely stunning, and considered by many to be the best vintage of this wine every made. Red fruits from the Merlot mix effortlessly with ripe blackberry and cassis, and the intense spice of Bolgheri Cabernet is everpresent. Chocolate, and blueberry round the wine out. Earthy without funk, the wine is truly classic.
In May, we enjoyed an epic lunch at Enoteca San Guido, the Michelin recommended restaurant owned by Tenuta San Guido. The 5-course meal included each of their 3 wines: Le Difese, Guidalberto, and Sassicaia. Sassicaia is, of course, tremendous, but the Guidalberto was the surprise of the day. It rivaled the Sassicaia and on the day, was the better wine. The Sassicaia will likely suprass it with time, but the immediacy and effortless way the Guidalberto passes across the palate is astonishing. It is a thrilling wine.
Drink: Now-2035
Serving Temp: 60º-65ºF - it's nice to taste this wine just above cellar temp and let it warm in the glass.
Food Pairings: Hearty pasta sauces (wild boar), fatty cuts of meat (ribeye), hard cheeses, fois gras, chocolate.
July Wine Club
Wine Club, June 2023
Smith-Madrone, Riesling 2018
Marcel Lapierre, Morgon, 2021
La Rioja Alta, ‘Viña Ardanza’ Reserva 2016
WINES
2018 Smith-Madrone, Riesling, Spring Mountain, Napa Valley, California
2021 Marcel Lapierre, Morgon, Beaujolais, France
2016 La Rioja Alta, ‘Viña Ardanza’ Reserva, La Rioja, Spain
SMITH-MADRONE
2018 Riesling, Spring Mountain, Napa Valley, California
100% Riesling
For more information on Smith-Madrone, please read our June Wine Club post to learn a bit about this iconic producer. However, I will say here that I am overjoyed that these wines are now available in the State of Kansas! Smith-Madrone has been a ‘darling’ for sommeliers for over 30 years, but most people outside of California and few other markets are relatively unfamiliar with this producer. And while I am a huge fan of their Cabernet Sauvignon, it is really this Riesling that sets Smith-Madrone apart.
Riesling is perhaps the most under appreciated varietal in the United States. The assumption from the general public that it is always sweet and lacks depth and complexity is simply a falsehood. Riesling is one of the world’s noble grapes and is maybe the most exciting varietal in the world for sommeliers when it comes to food and wine pairing. While Germany is regarded as the home of Riesling, there are hamlets around the world where the grape also has incredible success. Napa Valley rarely gets spoken of as one of these places. However, Smith-Madrone, who planted their Riesling vines in their beginning along with Cabernet Sauvignon, is the great exception. This Riesling is completely dry and filled with depth, minerality, finesse, and fantastic persistence. Present is the characteristic Riesling acid, but here we also see ripe and sweet citrus notes ranging from lemons to oranges, and beautiful floral aromas. The 2018 vintage is the current release for this wine and it is built for a long life!
Serve at 45º-48º
Can drink now, BUT…. Riesling has tremendous aging potential because of its fantastic acidity. This wine has the potential to develop for as long as 20-30 years….my advice–drink this bottle and then buy a lot more to keep in your cellar!
Food pairings: all the classic white wine dishes are great here from salads to seafood. Also - pork tenderloin, roast chicken, sushi, oysters, clam chowder.
MARCEL LAPIERRE
2021 Morgon, Beaujolais, France
100% Gamay
It is possible that the wines of Marcel Lapierre are my favorite in the world. They are just so damn delicious and so versatile! Marcel Lapierre is part of a generation of French winemakers that started the natural wine revolution in the 1970s. Their understanding of the importance of a diverse ecosystem to provide nutrients and energy to the vines, and then the ability to the grapes and wine evolve naturally with limited intervention from manmade chemicals seems obvious. However, it requires commitment and precision both in the vineyard and in the cellar to make wines of quality and character while limiting the use of chemicals and manmade compounds. One of the issues with the ‘natural wine movement’ is that too many winemakers us the marketing opportunities of the ‘natural’ moniker while not having the raw materials or skills to truly make outstanding wine. These include the right sites, high-quality and/or old vines, and exceptional, clean, and scientifically-sound wine making. At Marcel Lapierre, all of these issues are moot.
Located in the Beaujolais village of Morgon, one of the 10 Crus of the Beaujolais Appellation, Marcel Lapierre has vineyards with the best exposition, vines averaging 45 years in age, and a cellar that is pristine. Their wines, made with 100% Gamay grapes as required by the AOC, are among the most structured and expressive of all of Beaujolais.
A word on Beaujolais
The wines of Beaujolais have been maligned in much of the world by the marketing phenomenon that was and is Beaujolais Nouveau. Beaujolais Nouveau is the quickly made and released wine that hits the market on the 3rd Thursday of November each year, from grapes harvested just a few months prior. These wines, candied and filled with bubblegum notes, are not the wines that exemplify Beaujolais or the noble Gamay grape. Rather, the wines from the 10 cru villages (Saint. Amour, Juliénas, Fleurie, Chenas, Moulin-a-Vent, Chiroubles, Morgon, Brouilly, Côtes-de-Brouilly, Régnié) raise Gamay to its fullest potential as a fine wine with tremendous fruit, spice, finesse, and depth. These are some of the most food-friendly red wines on the planet and are pure happiness in a glass.
The Morgon of Marcel Lapierre is now made by his son Matthieu and daughter Camille who follow in their father’s footsteps, making wines with organic farming practices in the vineyard and natural, non-interventionist techniques in the cellar. The final wines are bottles with either very low or zero sulfite additions, no added sugars, and no filtration. The grapes are brought to winery where the whole clusters are placed in large oak vats to begin the alcoholic fermentation. However, in Beaujolais, this is done by Carbonic Maceration—a process in which the tanks are sealed and a layer of CO2 forms above the clusters as the weight of the bunches presses the grapes slowly. Following the fermentation, the clusters are slowly crushed and the juice is moved into used wood barrels for 12 months aging. The wine is bottled with no sulfur addition (or very minimal in the case of some of the exported wine) and held at the winery before release. The final wine is an example of some of the most delicious, and interesting wine on the planet. Full of red fruits that range from sour cherry, to raspberry, to strawberry, spices from cinnamon to cardamum, and a range of floral, earthy, and mineral notes. The combination of bright acid and fine tannins make give the wine a beautiful mouthfeel and long, finish.
On my visit to the estate in June 2023, I observed a winery and community of people with a spirit and joy for the wines, the earth, and hospitality. Our tasting included not only the low-sulfite Morgon, but also the zero sulfite version which was fascinating to taste side by side. In addition, we enjoyed their special cuvées including the single vineyard wine from the Côte-du-Py and a 2010 Morgon. I simply love everything this wine is. It does not pretend. It just is…delicious.
Serve at 55º-58º - you can actually chill this wine a touch if you like but it is definitely best at cellar temp or a little below.
Drink now or hold up to 10 years.
Food Pairing: Everything! This wine goes with any fish (especially fatty fish like salmon) and ranges all the way to chicken, roast pork, lamb, tenderloin steaks, burgers, pizza, hard/soft cheese, and more!
LA RIOJA ALTA
2016 ‘Viña Ardanza’ Reserva
80% Tempranillo, 20 % Grenache
La Rioja Alta produces some of the most exciting wines in all of Spain. Located in Haro, the capital of the Rioja DO (Denominacion de Origen) La Rioja Alta creates a perfect balance between tradition and modernity in the region. The dominant grape in the region, as in Ribera del Duero, is Tempranillo—spicy, high acid, and complex. As is customary here, the wines are aged in American oak which provides hallmark aromas of coconut and dill that support the fruit and mineral structure of the wines. The region’s warmth helps produce wines of richness and ripeness, while the cooling breezes that enter the Ebro valley help support the acid that gives the wines their longevity.
In the Rioja, wines are traditional identified by three markers for the amount of time they age in oak barrels. They are:
Crianza: aged a minimum of 12 months in oak and 6 months in bottle (2 years total required) before release
Reserva: aged a minimum of 12 months in oak and 6 months in bottle (3 years total required) before release
Gran Reserva: aged a minimum of 24 months in oak and 24 months in bottle (5 years total required) before release
La Rioja Alta’s aging process goes beyond the required minimums, spending 36 months in oak for the Tempranillo and 30 months in oak for the Garnacha. The oak protocol at La Rioja Alta sets them in a more traditional camp, using 4-year old American oak barrels for the Tempranillo and 2nd or 3rd passage oak for the Garnache. What results here is a wine that is almost perfect on release with fantastic potential to age and develop.
The 2016 vintage was tremendous, and this wine is a showstopper right out of the bottle. A huge bouquet with spice and red fruit jumps out of the glass. Hints of cigar and smoked meat combine with lovely toast notes, cedar, and dried coconut. On the palate, the acid and tannin hit simultaneously, integrating with a rich and round mouthfeel. The finish is long with new flavors of earth and spice revealing themselves every second. As the wine ages, more and more of these earthy elements appear, revealing forrest floor, dried leaves, and cured meat.
Serve at 58º-65ºF
Drink now or hold up to 15 years.
Food Pairing: This wine begs for smoked and cured meat, hard cheeses, and anything off the grill.
