Michael Kirkendoll 12/2/22 Michael Kirkendoll 12/2/22

November Wine Club

Wine Club, November 2022

Vilmart & Cie, Cuvée Rubis Brut Rosé NV, Champagne, France
2004, Château Gaby, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France

WINES

NV Vilmart & Cie, Cuvée Rubis, Brut Rosé, Champagne, France
2002 Château Gaby, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France

Vilmart & Cie, Cuvée Rubis, Brut Rosé NV
Champagne, France

Pinot Noir (90%) / Chardonnay (10%)

A tremendous Grower-Producer, Vilmart & Cie has been crafting top-tier Champagne since the 1890s. All of their Chardonnay is classified Premier Cru in the area of Rilly-la-Montagne. Vilmart & Cie practices environmentally-friendly agriculture, eschewing the use of pesticides and herbicides, which is not the most common thing in the Champagne region. Their wines exude sophistication and elegance and are crafted in a way that is singular to the estate, and, in my opinion, vastly superior to the mass-market Champagne houses. Te Cuvée Rubis Rosé is perhaps the most beautiful sparkling wine I have ever poured into a glass. An incredible salmon color, its bouquet is powerful with notes of wild red fruits like strawberries and raspberries. Gorgeous floral aromas then take hold, and on the palate, a crisp acidity is marked with a roundness that is absolutely special. The bubbles themselves are as fine and delicate as any out there, and the wine deserves to be enjoyed from an elegant glass. Don’t stifle this juice in a small flute! The use of 90% Pinot Noir grapes is notable in that includes a portion of actual finished red wine which contributes to the incredible color. In addition, the base wine for the cuvée is aged for 10 months in oak barrels, lending softness and aromatics. The base wines for the cuvée come from the 2017 and 2018 vintages. The cuvée is assembled, aged, and then bottles with it’s yeast for 3 years before the disgorgement as is the rule for Champagne.

Serve well chilled (43-46º)
Drink: now-2030
Food pairings: This Champagne is an exceptional food wine as well as a celebratory drink. The wine will go with anything from turkey, chicken, or goose, to seafood (notably lightly sautéed shrimp or scallops), a range of cheeses, or desserts provided they aren’t lusciously sweet.

Glassware
The common Champagne flute is finally falling out of favor. It traps the bouquet of these gorgeous wines. Instead, reach for a tulip glass or even pour this into either a standard white wine glass or a large Pinot Noir glass! Treat it like a wine. Enjoy the aromas and let it evolve.

About Champagne
Three grapes are allowed in the production of Champagne: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Most wines are a blend of two or all three of these grapes. A base wine is made in the traditional manner. The wine is then bottled and a small amount of yeast and sugar are added into bottle which is sealed with a crown cap. The bottle is then laid down in the cellar where it ages a minimum of 3 years for non-vintage Champagne (which means the base wine comes from multiple vintages). A second fermentation happens and the Carbon Dioxide cannot escape the bottle, thus producing bubbles! When the time is right, the bottle is removed from the cellar and the disgorgement takes place in which the cap is released and the yeast is expelled from the bottle. A small bit of reserve wine is added, along with sugar to the desired level for the wine. The wine is sealed with the traditional cork and wire cage and is either laid down for further aging or is released on the market. Champagne containing all Chardonnay is labeled Blanc de Blancs. Champagne made entire from Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier is labeled Bland de Noirs. Sparkling wines outside of France are often made in the ‘champagne method’ but may not write the word ‘Champagne’ on the bottle. The method will be listed as ‘traditional method’ or some similar phrase. These wines include all Cava from Spain, all Franciacorta from Italy, and most high-end sparkling wines from the United States. Sparkling wines such as Prosecco are traditionally made using the tank or Charmant method in which the second fermentation takes place in large tanks rather than in the bottle.

2004 CHÂTEAU GABY
Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France

Merlot (80%) - Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) - Cabernet Franc (10%)

Open at 60º-65ºF and let the wine interact with some oxygen or decant.
Drink: now-2027
Food pairings: Pork chops, hamburgers, steak frites, duck. Can work with a fatty fish like salmon if sauced and seasoned appropriately. Avoid spicy food pairings.

2018 ODDERO
Barbaresco ‘Gallina’, Piemonte, Italy

Nebbiolo (100%)

Despite its moniker as ‘the Queen of Wine’ (or perhaps because of it), Barbaresco tends to hide in the shadow of its ‘big brother’ Barolo. In truth, Barbaresco plays second to fiddle to no wines anywhere in the world. The wines of Barbaresco are just as powerful, elegant, and profound as their neighbors and are among the most expressive examples of Nebbiolo in the world. Located around the three townships of Barbaresco, Neive, and Treiso, the hills of Barbaresco are mixtures of limestone, sand, and clay soils, often with marine fossils lurking near the surface. The best Crus are identified as single vineyard wines, and the Gallina cru counts among them. The Gallina vineyard is located near the town of Neive, and there are several producers who make cru Barbaresco from the site. Oddero is an historic producer in Piemonte and produces a classically elegant Barbaresco here. A 25-day maceration and fermentation lends way to aging in 40hL large oak barrels of French and Austrian oak. The wine has strong tannins, typical of traditional Nebbiolo production. The tannins are met with bright acidity and a gorgeous floral bouquet. Notes of cherries, mocha, and sweet spices integrate with the tannins, creating a fantastic drinking experience.

Serve at 60ºF. The wine will open up beautiful over several hours in the bottle or in the glass.
Drink: now-2040.
Food pairings: A great wine to meditate on! Best wish lean, roasted meats and game, aged cheeses or blue cheeses/roquefort, hearty soups, roasted vegetables.

Michael Kirkendoll 11/5/22 Michael Kirkendoll 11/5/22

October Wine Club

Wine Club, October 2022

2017, Domaine de Pallus, ‘Les Pensees de Pallus’, Chinon, France
2006, Château Gaby, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France
2018, Oddero, Barbaresco ‘Gallina’, Piemonte, Italy

WINES

2017 Domaine de Pallus, ‘Les Pensees de Pallus’, Chinon, France
2006 Château Gaby, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France
2018 Oddero, Barbaresco ‘Gallina’, Piemonte, Italy

2017 DOMAINE DE PALLUS
’Les Pensees de Pallus’, Chinon, Loire Valley, France

Cabernet Franc (100%)

On the South bank of the Loire River and surrounding the tributary river the Vienne, Chinon represents the pinnacle of red wine production in the Loire Valley, and the home of some of the most classic and elegant Cabernet Franc wines in the world. Red wines from Chinon are 100% Cabernet Franc by law and exhibit the purity of this area’s soil and climate. While the climate here is slightly warmer and more continental than the coastal Loire regions, it is still a markedly cooler and drier area than the other major Cabernet Franc regions of the world, namely in Bordeaux, California, and Tuscany. This produces Cabernet Franc with typically higher acidity and more elegance/softer tannins. The wines can be truly beautiful and still have excellent aging potential from the top producers. As the parent grape of both Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, Cab Franc possesses natural pyrazine qualities (think bell pepper) that spread into both of these other grapes. Classic notes of red fruits, herbs, and gravelly minerality can often be found.

Domaine de Pallus cultivates 15 hectares of grand cru vineyard sites in the region, and Les Pensees de Pallus comes from one of the very top vineyards. Farmed biodynamically, the vines grow in soil comprised of sand and rocks rich in iron and calcareous clay. The wine has a slow fermentation and then ages 12 months in Burgundy barrels and another 6 months in concrete vats. This wine is incredibly expressive with gorgeous floral aromas mixing with the hallmark red fruits. Touches of Cabernet Franc’s hallmark ‘earthiness’ linger in the finish. The wine has wonderful aging potential. It drinks beautiful today and will continue to do so for another 10 years without problem!

Serve at cool room temperature/cellar temperature 55º-60ºF
Drink: 2022-2035
Food pairings: Pepper-crusted steak, salmon, game, grilled or roasted meats, or drink alone.

About the Loire Valley
Known primarily for its white wines, the Loire Valley stretches from the Atlantic Coast to the central plateau of France. The Loire is comprised of 4 large zones, within which are the communal designations for the major AOC level wines. Chinon is located in Touraine, as is Vouvray where some of the best Chenin Blanc is produced. Sancerre, home of the world’s great Sauvignon Blancs, is part of the Central Vineyards, and the magical Chenin Blanc’s of Savennières can be found in Anjou-Saumur. It is a region marked by historic and mesmerizing châteaux, fantastic seafood, and also the birthplace of Joan of Arc (Orléans).

2006 CHÂTEAU GABY
Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France

Merlot (80%) - Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) - Cabernet Franc (10%)

This is the 2nd offering from Château Gaby for the Stem & Flute Society (going with the 2008 from the September offering). Canon-Fronsac is part of the famed Right-Bank in Bordeaux, near the communes of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. While Left Bank Bordeaux wines are known for their powerful and graphite-laded Cabernet Sauvignon based blends, the Right Bank is the home of some of the world’s finest Merlot and Cabernet Franc-based wines in the world. Château Gaby has long been a leading property in the region, making wines since the 1600s. The winemaking and growing is all organic and the Merlot thrives on the clay-rich soil of the region. 2008 was an under-the-radar vintage for wines from Bordeaux squeezed in between the historic vintages of 2005 and 2009. The sunny and dry summer without extreme temperatures led to ripe and happy grapes that produced wines of elegance and subtlety rather than intensity and power. There is still plenty to grab your attention in this wine, though! Classic velvet-like tannins from the Merlot are bolstered by the earthiness of the Cabernet Franc and the color and structure of the Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of plum, blackberry, black cherry, black pepper, and notes of wet earth make the wine almost ‘Burgundian’. The wine is in the midst of a great period in its evolution and should continue aging well over the next decade.

Open at 60º-65ºF and let the wine interact with some oxygen or decant.
Drink: now-2030
Food pairings: Pork chops, hamburgers, steak frites, duck. Can work with a fatty fish like salmon if sauced and seasoned appropriately. Avoid spicy food pairings.

2018 ODDERO
Barbaresco ‘Gallina’, Piemonte, Italy

Nebbiolo (100%)

Michael Kirkendoll 10/7/22 Michael Kirkendoll 10/7/22

September Wine Club

Wine Club, September 2022

2020 Tenuta San Marzano, ‘Edda’ Bianco, Salento IGP
2008 Château Gaby, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux
2018 Tenuta di Biserno, ‘Il Pino’, Toscana IGT

WINES

2020 Tenuta San Marzano, ‘Edda’ Bianco, Salento IGP, Italy
2008 Château Gaby, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France
2018 Tenuta di Biserno, ‘Il Pino’, Toscana IGT, Italy

2020 TENUTA SAN MARZANO
’Edda’ Bianco, Salento IGP, Puglia, Italy

Chardonnay (60%) - Fiano (20%) - Wild Muscatel (20%)

Located around the Salento area in Puglia on the heel of Italy’s boot, Tenuta San Marzano produces fantastic wines from a range of grapes including both international and native Italian varietals. The ‘Edda’ Bianco is one of the most surprising and delightful Chardonnay-based wines to hit my tongue in the last two years. Bright, crisp, and full of surprising mineralogy, this wine is a very interesting and unique take on Chardonnay. The blending of local grapes like Fiano and Wild Muscatel help to provide the wildness and acidity that makes this wine such a special surprise. Four months aging in French oak and on the lees (the dead yeast cells leftover after the fermentation), the wine boasts a full-bodied mouthfeel and feels like a ripe melon in your mouth. Aromas of peaches, lemon, and dried apricots dance with light floral notes, ultimately mixing with soft and sweet spices and an expressive acidity. This sun-baked region of Southern Italy may not be known for Chardonnay, and while this is not a ‘classic’ Chardonnay in the Burgundian sense, it is a truly delightful sensory experience! It’s a favorite.

Serve chilled, around 50ºF
Drink: 2022-2025
Food pairings: Fish, roast chicken, cheese, complex salads or drink alone.

Puglia / Salento IGP
Salento is the larger area within Puglia that essentially makes up the entire heel of the boot of Italy. It is noted for its intense limestone soils and warm, sun-drenched mediterranean climate that give the regions wines incredible ripeness and mineralogy. As an IGP wine (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) and not a DOC/DOCG wine, producers are able to create wines from a wine range of grapes and in any number of styles from white and red to rosé or sparkling.

2008 CHÂTEAU GABY
Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France

Merlot (80%) - Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) - Cabernet Franc (10%)

Canon-Fronsac is part of the famed Right-Bank in Bordeaux, near the communes of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. While Left Bank Bordeaux wines are known for their powerful and graphite-laded Cabernet Sauvignon based blends, the Right Bank is the home of some of the world’s finest Merlot and Cabernet Franc-based wines in the world. Château Gaby has long been a leading property in the region, making wines since the 1600s. The winemaking and growing is all organic and the Merlot thrives on the clay-rich soil of the region. 2008 was an under-the-radar vintage for wines from Bordeaux squeezed in between the historic vintages of 2005 and 2009. The sunny and dry summer without extreme temperatures led to ripe and happy grapes that produced wines of elegance and subtlety rather than intensity and power. There is still plenty to grab your attention in this wine, though! Classic velvet-like tannins from the Merlot are bolstered by the earthiness of the Cabernet Franc and the color and structure of the Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of plum, blackberry, black cherry, black pepper, and notes of wet earth make the wine almost ‘Burgundian’. The wine is in the midst of a great period in its evolution and should continue aging well over the next decade.

2018 TENUTA DI BISERNO
’Il Pino’, Toscana IGT, Italy

Merlot (38%) - Cabernet Franc (27%) - Petit Verdot (23%) - Cabernet Sauvignon (12%)

The landscape of wine in Tuscany is no doubt dominated by Sangiovese. In the 1960s and 70s, a group of winemakers began to change that with the creation of the ‘Super Tuscans’. These were wines that utilized international varietals, namely Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc to create Bordeaux-styled wines in the unique soils and microclimates of Tuscany. While many of the wines incorporated native Italian varietals (including Sangiovese), others were pure Bordeaux-style blends. Such is the case with the ‘Il Pino’ from Tenuta di Biserno. Within view of the Thyrrhenian Sea and the island of Corsica on the west coast of Tuscany, Tenuta di Biserno’s wines are full of ripeness, minerality, and an incredible amount of depth and complexity. The soils here are a mix of ancient sea beds, iron-rich clay, and a volcanic base layer. While temperatures can be quite warm to hot in the summer, the proximity to the sea and the constant breezes help to provide moderation and keep a good level of acidity in the grapes while allowing them to get fully ripe every year. These elements contribute to the uniqueness of the Bordeaux varietals when they come from this part of the world. A beautiful ruby color introduces this wine. Powerful aromas of plum, cedar, tobacco, pepper, cherries, blackcurrants, and a bouquet of herbs erupt from the glass. On the palate, the spices are very present with the earthiness of the Cabernet Franc making itself known as well. Give this wine time to open and it is a showstopper. A long finish leaves one thirsting for another sip.

Serve at 60º-65ºF. Decanting is possible but let this wine mature slowly. Perhaps open an hour or two before service and enjoy a sip as you wait for dinner, or just slowly work through the bottle over a period of time, letting it change with each fresh pour.
Drink: best after 2024-2032 but excellent now with some time.
Food pairings: Rich and fatty meats on the grill, herb crusts, smoked and cured meat as well. This wine begs for food along with it.